So, what exactly is the difference between an EVO SSD and a QVO SSD? Let’s find out in this guide.

SSD Basics

SSDs store data in flash memory chips, more specifically NAND flash. Inside these flash chips are billions of small memory cells arranged in a vertically stacked arrangement, commonly known as 3D NAND or V-NAND. A cell is the smallest unit of an SSD.

Cell Types

Cells store data by trapping electrons or charges. The market is filled with four different types of cells. The underlying physics is quite complicated, so we won’t dive into the details of their construction.

• SLC (Single Level Cell) – Stores 1 bit per cell | High Speeds | Costly
• MLC (Multi Level Cell) – Stores 2 bits per cell | Slightly Lower Speeds | Less Expensive
• TLC (Triple Level Cell) – Stores 3 bits per cell | Lower Speeds | Cheaper
• QLC (Quad Level Cell) – Stores 4 bits per cell | Slowest Speeds | Cheapest

For example, if you wish to store “255” (11111111 in binary) in a QLC SSD, you might only need a part of a single cell since QLC cells can store up to 4 bits (16 different states) each. However, an SLC SSD would require eight cells because each cell stores just one bit. It’s important to note that this simplification ignores complexities such as wear leveling, error correction, and actual write amplification which affect how data is physically laid out in the SSD.

TBW (TeraBytes Written)

The endurance of SSDs is measured in TBW or TeraBytes Written. Once this value is exceeded, data cannot be stored reliably. Reading data from SSDs is less taxing on the lifespan compared to writing, but very high-read scenarios can still contribute to wear through mechanisms like wear leveling and background activities. However, this impact is minor compared to the effect of write operations.

Read/Write Speeds

The term “Sequential Read/Write” represents the speed you should expect from your SSD when reading from or writing to files that are placed next to each other.

Random Read/Write speeds are expressed in IOPS (Input Output Operations per Second). These speeds indicate how quickly data can be read from or written to randomly. Higher speeds can improve day-to-day usage and fluidity.

SLC Caching

Most buffering on your SSD is done through a process called “SLC Caching.” A small part of your SSD is converted to fast SLC and acts as a cache. Writing data directly to QLC SSDs is slow, so manufacturers convert a part of your SSD into SLC Cache to speed up the process.

This was a basic rundown of the terminologies we will focus on later. For a very in-depth guide regarding SSDs, we suggest you read to read our detailed SSD Buying Guide.

EVO vs QVO

Initially, Samsung only offered PRO and EVO SSDs. However, this changed in 2020 when Samsung introduced its first QLC offerings. QLC is intended to offer higher capacities, but the tradeoff is reduced speed and lifespan.

For context, here is a comparison of Samsung’s 860 series, which launched in QVO, EVO, and PRO variants. Let’s go over the primary differences.

1) NAND Type

Samsung’s QVO SSDs are cheaper and denser since they use QLC memory. Meanwhile, the EVO lineup is equipped with slightly better TLC, and the PRO series uses MLC. SLC is reserved for military-grade and enterprise-level equipment due to its cost.

Raw QLC performance can be slower than that of hard drives and flash drives once the SLC cache fills up. QLC stores 4 bits per cell, resulting in 16 different voltage thresholds or possible values that can be stored.

Samsung rates the raw speeds (once the SLC cache is exhausted) for the 870 EVO at 530 MB/s. The 870 QVO can slow down significantly once its SLC cache is exhausted, sometimes reaching as low as 80 MB/s under certain conditions.

However, it’s essential to note that the actual slowdown can vary based on workload and firmware optimizations. Some lower-end HDDs might have sequential write speeds comparable to or even lower than a QLC SSD operating without cache.

2) Lifespan

The Samsung 860 EVO 1TB has a TBW of 600 TeraBytes Written, while its QVO counterpart has just 360 TBW. If you write 50GB/day, here’s the average lifespan of both drives:

1. Samsung 860 EVO – 32 Years
2. Samsung 860 QVO – 20 Years

That’s a significant decrease. Why? QLC SSDs need to distinguish 16 different voltage levels, twice as many as TLC. Consequently, QLC cells undergo increased degradation compared to TLC cells. This is due to the higher number of voltage levels required to store 4 bits per cell (16 levels for QLC) versus 3 bits per cell (8 levels for TLC). The tighter voltage tolerances lead to higher error rates and faster wear over time.

3) Storage Capacity

The Samsung 870 QVO offers up to 8TB of storage, whereas the 870 EVO tops out at 4TB. A QLC cell can hold 4 bits, but a TLC cell can only store 3 bits, allowing QVO SSDs to store 33% more data with the same number of cells.

1. Samsung 870 EVO: 250GB, 500GB, 1TB, 2TB, and 4TB
2. Samsung 870 QVO: 1TB, 2TB, 4TB, and 8TB

4) Price

SSD prices vary over time. At launch, the 870 QVO was actually more expensive than the 870 EVO by $20. However, SSD prices can fluctuate rapidly.

1. Samsung 870 QVO 4TB Launch Price: $500
2. Samsung 870 EVO 4TB Launch Price: $480

Nowadays, the 870 4TB EVO is 10% more expensive than its QVO counterpart. Given this price difference, it’s important to consider the trade-offs in speed and TBW before making a choice.

So, which SSD is for you?

The most recent QVO SSD from Samsung is the Samsung 870 QVO, launched in 2020. Due to the marginal price difference with its EVO equivalent, it typically makes sense to go for the Samsung 870 EVO.

However, in a general sense, QLC SSDs aren’t inherently bad if you’re using them for read-only purposes. If you want to use it as a game drive or a Plex drive, you probably wouldn’t mind the drawbacks of QLC.

For your operating system, longevity and sustained write speeds make TLC (EVO) equipped SSDs a better option. The choice is yours.

The post Samsung QVO vs EVO: Which is Better? appeared first on Appuals.

Precision drivers, now standard for all Windows devices, offer a smoother and more responsive experience, making touchpad interactions intuitive. This article explores precision drivers, their key features, and how to install them.

During the Windows 8.1 era, Apple led the market in touchpad technology, with no Windows laptop matching its performance. To bridge this gap, Microsoft introduced Precision Touchpad drivers.

These drivers aimed to standardize the touchpad experience across all Windows devices, providing smoother, more responsive performance to rival Apple’s technology.

Precision drivers were first introduced with the Surface Pro 2 in 2013 and are now part of the Microsoft Surface lineup, including devices like the Surface Laptop 2. With the release of Windows 11, precision drivers are required for all new devices.

However, older laptops with non-Precision touchpads running Windows 10 can still upgrade to Windows 11. Precision drivers are not mandatory for all devices upgrading to the new OS. One key advantage of precision drivers is that they receive regular updates, ensuring they remain optimized and bug-free.

How Do Precision Drivers Work?

Precision touchpads use a diving board-like mechanism, where parts underneath move slightly when clicked. The touchpad integrates with both software and hardware on your computer, delivering a highly accurate and responsive user experience. Additionally, sensitivity settings can be customized for better control of cursor movements.

They also feature Palm Detection Technology, which helps distinguish between intentional touchpad use and accidental contact from your palm or wrist.

Precision drivers also support Multi-Touch Gestures, such as two-finger scrolling, pinch-to-zoom, and three or four-finger swipes, allowing users to interact more efficiently with the touchpad.

READ MORE: How to Fix Touch Gestures Not Working in Windows 11? ➜

How To Check If Your Laptop Has Precision Drivers?

If you’re using a Windows 11 laptop, there’s no need to check for Precision Drivers, as they come pre-installed. For Windows 10 devices, here’s how to verify if Precision Drivers are installed:

1. Click the Windows button on the Taskbar and open Settings.
   

   

2. Navigate to the “Devices” tab.
   

   

3. Click on “Touchpad“. If your laptop has a Precision Touchpad, a message will appear at the top of the window saying “Your PC has a precision touchpad“.
   

   

READ MORE: How to Turn Off Windows 11 Upgrade Screen in Windows 10? ➜

How to Install Precision Drivers on Your Laptop

If your laptop doesn’t have Precision Drivers, you can still install them. Regardless of whether you currently use Elan or Synaptics drivers, you can switch to precision drivers since all drivers use similar hardware.

1. Prerequisites

Before installing, determine your laptop’s touchpad type. Open Device Manager and expand the “Mice and other pointing devices” section to see the current touchpad. Once identified, download the corresponding precision driver.

Download the relevant precision drivers from these sources:

• For Synaptics: Download Synaptics Precision Drivers.
• For ELAN: Download ELAN Precision Drivers.

2. Installation

After downloading the drivers, follow these steps:

1. Extract the downloaded driver files to a folder.
   

   

2. In Device Manager, right-click your touchpad device, and select “Update driver“.
   

   

3. Choose “Browse my computer for driver software“.
   

   

4. Navigate to the folder where you extracted the drivers and select it.
   

   

5. Follow the on-screen instructions to complete the installation.
6. Once installed, restart your laptop to apply the changes. You are done!

The post What Are Precision Drivers and How to Install Them? appeared first on Appuals.

So how much does your PC cost? Whether you’re upgrading your current rig or saving money for something else, it always helps to know how much cash you can expect after selling your system. In this guide, we will focus on what aspects make your PC more expensive and which tools you can use to get an estimated figure.

Nominal Price vs Real Price

A PC comprises many different parts, and within those parts, you have many models. The Nominal Price of your system can be determined by a tool such as PCPartPicker; which does not account for regional pricing and other factors. This can give you a quick estimated figure but can vary wildly based on where you live or the condition of your parts.

Nominal Price

The Nominal Price is the retail price of your PC right now, globally. When calculating the Nominal Price, we’ll assume the parts to be brand new since if your build is 2-3 years old, chances are there isn’t a huge price gap between used and old components, if they are still being produced that is.

As an example, the i5-11400 had an MSRP of $182 at launch. After a few generations, its price has gone down to as low as $119.99, brand new. This is the Nominal Price.

• The nominal Price is the current MSRP of your components.
• It reflects the price you’d pay right now for your components, brand new.
• If your build is newly built, the Nominal Price and MSRP could be similar.

Real Price

The Real Price is the Nominal Price adjusted for your regional market. This is basically what you can expect to get if you sell your system right now.

Sticking with the i5-11400 example, in Pakistan, the Real Price of that processor (Used) is approximately $106 as per our research. While the difference isn’t huge in this example, parts with limited availability can see a significant bump or fall in the Real Price.

• The Real Price is the Nominal Price but is based on the regional market and how much the product has been used.
• This quotation represents the resale value of your PC in the local market.

Likewise, using the principle of supply and demand, your Real Price could be significantly lower than the Nominal Price since the current global retail value (Nominal Price) of a product will not always reflect the price in your local shops. For example, while the Vega 64 can beat the GTX 1080 in some cases, it is always cheaper given the low demand.

Enough talking, let’s get into the nitty-gritty of how you can determine your PC’s Nominal and Real price.

READ MORE: How to Find Out How Old Is Your Computer – Windows & Mac ➜

How to Determine the Price of My PC?

Before we go in-depth, our guide focuses on two aspects; the Real Price and the Nominal Price. The former will be discussed later on, with a more hands-on approach. Meanwhile, the latter is rather simple to calculate.

1) PCPartPicker — Nominal Price

PCPartPicker is a website that allows users to compare and check the compatibility of various PC components. It works by scraping data from a large number of retailers online to give you the best prices. Consider it the go-to place for “Drafting a PC“, literally. Here’s how you can use this tool:

1. Search the term “PC Part Picker” on Google. Make sure you double-check the URL; “https://pcpartpicker.com“
   
2. Click on the “Start Your Build” button as shown in the image.
   
3. Once you’re presented with the interface, select all the parts inside your PC in the respective fields. Be mindful to add the correct models, as they have a substantial impact on the price.
   
4. Keep in mind, you might not find the prices for every single part here, especially if it is restricted to a few regions only. The final estimate for our build comes out to be $570. On purchase, this PC cost around $720. We’ll share a detailed chart below.
   
   

While you can set an asking price of $570 for this build, this is around $70 more expensive than our estimated Real Price. Again, $570 does not account for the fact that our PC has been “used” and the local market’s variance.

Using the previous Vega 64 vs GTX 1080 example, users in our local community were willing to pay a maximum of 45000 PKR ($161) for a top-of-the-line Asus ROG Strix Vega 64 8GB. Meanwhile, Dual-Fan GTX 1080s go for around 50000 PKR – 60000 PKR ($180–$215).

While we’re at it, based on eBay’s data, the GTX 1080 has a Nominal Price of $100–$120 in the US, much lower than in Pakistan. This is why it is important to not only rely on the Nominal Price but also research your local market as well.

2) Manually Searching — Real Price

There are two ways to go this route; scour the physical market or search local online marketplaces. We’ll opt for the latter as it is simply more convenient. There are several websites and services you can use such as:

1. Facebook Marketplace
2. Subreddits
3. eBay
4. OLX (if available in your country)

Every country has that one specific online marketplace that everyone loves, so finding buyers and a community to get quotes from should not be that difficult. Anyhow, using the same PC we used in PCPartPicker to get a Nominal Price, let’s try and find the Real Price.

We’ll use the PPG Facebook group from Pakistan in our case to get the required data. As can be seen, the Real Price is 10% lower than the Nominal Price using PCPartPicker. Moreover, after 2 years of use, our parts have devalued by almost 30%, without taking into account inflation.

1. The nominal Price has been calculated using PCPartPicker. ︎
2. The Real Price has been gathered from various sources; PPG, OLX, and Facebook Marketplace. We have taken upwards of 5 samples for each part and calculated the average. ︎
3. Appropriate USD to PKR rates have been used for calculation; 1 USD = 215 PKR (July 2022) / 178 PKR (December 2021). ︎

Now, you might say that 10% isn’t large enough to warrant this level of research. And you’re partially correct. However, what if your Real Price was actually 10% higher, instead of lower like in our case?

The next step is to visit local markets and get an estimate for your build. It is best you not only stick to 1 shop but try at least 5-6 different ones to get multiple opinions. We’ve seen time and time again that users end up getting ripped off because of this mistake.

READ MORE: How Much Does It Cost to Replace A Phone Screen in 2024? ➜

What Factors Increase Your PC’s Value?

Now what exactly can you do to increase your PC’s worth? Aside from the typical; don’t break it, don’t damage it… There is a chance you may be able to get a higher asking price based on your components and a few important quirks.

1. CPU — Tray vs Boxed

Be it tray or boxed, the physical chip (CPU) is the same. The only difference is the warranty (and the cool packaging). If your CPU is boxed, you can directly contact Intel or AMD for a replacement in case of any issues. If you bought a tray CPU, however, you’re reliant on your distributor since tray CPUs are supplied in bulk to OEMs.

If you’ve been up to speed with the recent Intel 13th / 14th Generation fiasco, Intel initially only extended warranties for Boxed CPUs. However, after some backlash, Tray CPUs were later included in the list as well. The caveat is that you’d still need to contact your distributor and not Intel.

2. GPU — The AIB Tax

Is it really worth spending extra money on a supposedly “better” GPU model, even though the chip inside is physically the same? Take this example, the ZOTAC Trinity RTX 4090 costs 574,999 PKR ($2068). The same shop sells the ASUS ROG STRIX RTX 4090 for 764,999 PKR ($2751).

Now we won’t question your purchasing habits, but generally, high-end models can sustain this “AIB Tax” for a few generations even. But again, it will be a hassle finding someone who’d be willing to pay 35% more for the same GPU.

3. RAM — RGB & Better Timings

It will be blasphemous not to mention RGB if we’re talking about PC gaming. Users are willing to pay more for RAM with RGB, simply due to their aesthetics. Likewise, we strongly advise you to not overlook your RAM’s specifications as speeds and timings really matter.

Two similar kits of Corsair Vengeance 2x16GB DDR5 memory have a 22% price difference only because the more expensive one is faster (5600MT/s vs 6200MT/s). So, faster RAM (with RGB of course) not only impacts your PC’s performance but also increases its overall value.

4. Motherboard — Expensive is Better?

Getting a high-end motherboard is almost always better than sticking with the budget or entry-level options. The answer is pretty much self-explanatory, you get better VRMs, memory overclocking, CPU overclocking, extra ports, more NVMe slots, and memory channels.

There is a caveat, however. Intel is infamous for its short platform support, meaning that every 2 years you will need to upgrade the motherboard to use your shiny new processor. An expensive Z790 might be tempting but note that in just 1-2 years you’d be selling a motherboard based on an outdated platform, which is easier said than done.

5. Peripherals — The More the Merrier

Your chosen accessories can contribute quite a bit to your PC’s cost. Used keyboards and mice don’t usually sell for that much cheaper, typically losing 15-20% of their value at best, based on the condition.

What we do recommend is replacing the foam pads on your headphones since they generally get worn out pretty quickly. Gaming monitors are actually better if purchased used since the end-user has a sure way of knowing whether the display has dead pixels or scratches; you don’t get that luxury with new box-packed monitors.

6. Miscellaneous

To sum it all up, here is a list of things that could potentially lower or increase your system’s value:

• There should be no visible cracks or damage to the exterior.
• The hardware should not be faulty, for example, malfunctioning motherboard ports.
• GPUs opened for maintenance such as repasting are cheaper than sealed GPUs.
• Modded peripherals, especially with optical switches may fetch a higher price than brand-new ones.
• Any product in warranty will automatically increase its value.
• The more RGB, the more your PC will stand out.

READ MORE: PC Gaming Peripherals – Are Racing Wheels Really Worth the Money? ➜

Conclusion

Selling your PC is often not an easy thing to do, even if you plan on upgrading. Many people mistakenly sell their PCs at 10-15% lower than their Real Price, because they didn’t do ample research.

If you want to increase your PC’s value, try focusing on the small things such as RGB SSD heatsinks (Yes that’s a real term), a GPU bracket, and whatnot. Try undervolting or even overclocking your CPU/GPU to the max. This will make your listing more enticing and save the end user the hassle of finding these values from scratch.

The post How Much is My PC Worth? Find Out Your PC’s Actual Value appeared first on Appuals.

The static sound you hear on Bluetooth devices is mainly due to signal-based issues arising from factors like exceeding the safe range or low battery levels. This guide outlines the possible steps to isolate and resolve the issue. If all else fails, try using a different device on either end to identify the culprit.

Similar to tuning an old television set to an empty channel with no transmission signal, you’ll see a random flicker of fuzzy zigzags accompanied by a crackling, hissing sound, also known as white noise or static sound. These can be considered ‘audio artifacts.’ This particular type of sound is commonly found in Bluetooth audio devices when—like the television set—the radio signals are out of reach.

Why Does it Happen?

In Bluetooth devices, this crackling sound is primarily caused when the device is out of range of the receiver, or when external signals within the same band cause interference. However, this is extremely rare with modern Bluetooth standards. Below are the possible factors that can cause disturbing static noise within your audio device and how to fix them accordingly.

1) Adjust the Device’s Fit

In the simplest of solutions, try to adjust your headset or earbuds’ position, as they may not be making proper contact with your ears. Most earbuds nowadays come with in-ear detection, which uses built-in sensors to detect when the device is inserted or removed from the user’s ears. This can sometimes cause an issue if the fit is not correct and can lead to distorted or static noise.

In the case of a speaker, if adjusting its position, meaning pulling it closer to the audio source, fixes the issue, the cause is likely linked to the device’s range. Before trying any advanced fixes, check to see if changing the fit or position solves the issue.

2) Reduce Distance to Connected Devices

While this mainly applies to older Bluetooth protocols, if you’re experiencing a lot of static from your audio device, try to move both the receiver and transmitter closer together to see if that makes a difference. Bluetooth 5.4, the most recent standard, has a range of more than a whopping 800 ft, which is a significant improvement over the 30-50 ft range of older iterations.

Whether you’re using a Bluetooth transmitter or an audio headset, move the source closer to the device for a more accurate signal, and check to see if there is a difference in the intensity of static noise heard. In most cases, this should solve the issue, but if not, move on to the next step.

3) Restart to Re-Pair Devices

In the case of connection issues or problems relating to the device’s range, if the user has walked out of the safe range and returned, the device should auto-connect. However, if it leads to a hissing, static noise, the issue could lie in the connection itself, which might have weakened.

To isolate the issue, move both devices closer and re-pair the devices so that the connection is re-established properly. Once this is done, recheck to see if the issue persists. This can also be addressed by restarting the Bluetooth discovery mode on either device if both classify each other as a “trusted Bluetooth device.”

READ MORE: How to Fix Bluetooth Paired but Not Connected Issue ➜

4) Check the Device’s Battery Level

Most Bluetooth audio devices have a dedicated audible cue for low battery levels. This is to ensure that the device is plugged back in to charge. Since some headsets and earbuds activate a low-power mode when this happens, the audio quality might suffer, and as a result of a weak connection, static noise may be heard.

The crackling sound isn’t an indication of low battery levels but rather suggests that the Bluetooth receiver or the audio codec is having issues decoding the signal on the receiving end.

5) Disable All Audio Enhancements

If you have any audio enhancements or software alterations applied to sound coming from your Bluetooth device, turn them off. While static sound isn’t directly linked to these enhancements, it is important to note that any sort of additional processing on the audio induces additional load on the audio pipeline, and subsequently, affects the sound output from the device.

If you’re hearing a lot of static sound, turn off all audio enhancement processes to ensure that the output is more direct, and even if it doesn’t fully eliminate the crackling sound, it at least rules out one of the possible reasons for the issue.

6) Look for Physical Damage

In wired audio, static noise is heard when there is an issue with the device’s wires or the driver itself, and the same can be said for Bluetooth devices to some extent. Look for any physical damage on your device, whether it’s a wireless earbud, headset, or audio transmitter.

The best way to diagnose or isolate the issue is to pair a different device to the same source and check to see if the issue persists. If the crackling sound returns, the issue most likely lies in the audio source and not the device.

7) Update Audio Drivers and Device Firmware

If none of the other solutions work, look for any available driver or firmware updates for your device. Usually, a software bug or glitch causes issues with the Bluetooth connection. At times, this can result in a persistent, frustrating static noise.

If you’re using wireless earbuds, check the manufacturer’s website or app for updates. If the source in question is a PC, laptop, or even a car’s infotainment system, look for driver updates within the operating system itself.

READ MORE: How to Fix Audio Crackling / Distorting in Windows? ➜

The post How to Fix Static Noise in Bluetooth Devices? appeared first on Appuals.

All of this discussion begs the question, “What PSU do I currently have?“. Whether you believe in the philosophy of pre-builts / OEMs or have built your PC by yourself from the ground up, finding what PSU you use is as simple as looking at the supply itself, for the most part. After this guide, you too will know what power supply you have.

What is a Power Supply?

Put simply, the PSU of your computer converts AC Power from the mains into DC Power. While doing so, it also steps down the voltage from say 220V to +12V, +5V, and +3.3V DC to power your PC’s crucial components. You can probably understand how even a slight hitch in power delivery can literally set your PC on fire.

Unlike the CPU, motherboard, GPU, and whatnot, your PSU is not a smart device. Therefore, no amount of software can ever determine your current PSU, unless, if you have an OEM-specific application but that’s the exception rather than the rule.

READ MORE: PC Power Supply Buying Guide – How to Choose The PSU For Your Gaming PC ➜

How Do You Know Your Power Supply Model?

In almost every case, you’ll have to physically inspect your system to see what PSU you have. Let’s go over this step by step.

1) Pre-Builts and Gaming PCs

1. Unplug your PC from the mains by pulling out the socket and switching the PSU button (if any) off.
   
   
   
2. Locate screws (if any) on your PC’s side panel and unscrew them. Some pre-builts such as Dell OptiPlex may have a case that uses a latch mechanism. From the image attached below, it is quite obvious that our system is equipped with an XPG Pylon PSU, however, just to get the point across, we’ll unscrew the side panel and give you a better view.
   
   
   
3. After removing the side cover carefully and placing it aside, we can have a better look at the PSU.
   
   
   
4. This information is not enough to pinpoint the exact model. In most cases, it is possible to view the sticker containing detailed specifications of the PSU in question without unplugging it from the system.
5. From the top of the PSU, we can clearly see that this is the 650W (Total Continuous Power) variant of the XPG Pylon. If you have difficulty viewing the sticker, you should search for your unit on the Internet since specifications from most renowned vendors are easily accessible.
   
   

READ MORE: How and Why Cheap PSUs Harm Your PC ➜

2) OEM Systems

A quick word of advice, we strongly suggest users swap their OEM PSU for a more reliable and well-known brand for performance and safety reasons. While OEM PSUs can be decent or even good at times, there is no sure way of knowing unless someone has extensively tested that unit, the chances of which are low to none.

Anyhow, if you still want to know the maximum power output or detailed specifications of your OEM PSU, there are a few methods.

1. Remove the front panel as explained above.
2. Inspect the sticker on the Power Supply. You typically want to look for something that says “Maximum Power“. In this case, the PSU is rated at 250W maximum and is certified for 80 PLUS Bronze efficiency. If for some reason, you want an even more detailed overview, try looking for a serial number, which in this case is “CN-0W72XN-7130B. (Image Credits: Reddit)
   
   
   
3. A simple Google Search against the term “CN-0W72XN-7130B” brings us to a digital spec sheet of this unit.

3) Check the Purchase Receipts

If you still have the receipt of the purchase of your PC, then you can consult that to go over all the components; including the PSU. Even if you don’t have the physical copy, try going over your old messages with the seller since most online vendors also send you a soft copy as well.

In addition to knowing your PSU model, you can gain insight into other parts of your PC as well with this method.

4) Use Software to Check Your PSU Model

Remember when we said that the PSU is a “dumb” component? That is still technically true as all your PSU does is supply power and regulate it. There needs to be some data connections between the PSU and motherboard, for which we currently do not have an industry-wide standard.

Some brands do offer a feature in higher-end PSUs and motherboards that allow users to monitor their PSUs using software. An example is Corsair’s iCUE software that can monitor PSUs (Corsair AXi, HXi, and RMi series). Since this feature serves a small niche of the entire market, most brands don’t bother adding software monitoring options for PSUs.

So if you want to know your PSU using software, you’re basically at the mercy of your brand at this point.

READ MORE: The 5 Best Entry-Level Budget PSUs For Gaming PCs ➜

How to Pick a Good PSU?

Never cheap out on your Power Supply! Your PSU can make or break your PC. Those $20 you just saved could cost you your entire system in the worst-case scenario. Good PSUs sacrifice themselves before any damage occurs to the system. So, in light of this argument, what exactly qualifies as a good Power Supply?

1. How Much Power Do You Need?

The first step is to determine your needs. You may use online tools such as Newegg’s Power Supply Calculator to see how much power your system may require at full load. Assume you are pairing an RTX 3060 (TDP: 200W) with a Ryzen 5 7500F (TDP: 65W), this puts us at 300–350W, considering additional headroom for other components.

Despite this, many (including the online PSU Calculator) will suggest a 500–600W PSU, to be in the safe zone.

2. Choosing the Appropriate PSU

Once you have decided on the required wattage, it’s time to pick the Power Supply of your choice. Word of advice, don’t blindly trust all numbers you see by manufacturers. We strongly recommend users go over independent reviews consult the PSU Cultist tier list and make sure your PSU isn’t below Tier C (Low-end).

 Single vs Multi Rail PSUs

On a PSU, you’ll typically see 3 rails; +5V, +3.3V, and +12V. These serve different purposes;

1. 12V: CPU, GPU, Fans and PCI-E cards
2. 5V: HDD, SATA SSDs, Optical Drives, PCI cards and USB
3. 3.3V: RAM and Motherboard (Deprecating Slowly)

A while back, PSUs used to come with single or multiple +12V rails. The +12V rails carry the most power, so, for safety reasons, they were split up into multiple channels. In the case of MSI’s MPG A850GF, you’d expect that the +12V rail can deliver 850W in all conditions, but that’s partially true, as in the given example, the +12VVGA1 (1st GPU) can only be supplied with 480W of power (12V x 40A).

As you can see, the XPG Pylon 650 can deliver 648W from the single +12V rail (12V x 54A), ample for most budget CPU+GPU combinations. Therefore, while rare, it is still important to check whether the PSU you’re choosing has a single-rail or a multi-rail setup.

 Output Wattage and Efficiency

The “Total Continuous Power” figure is a combination of total power drawn across all the stated power rails at any given moment. The “Output Wattage” on the contrary is the theoretical maximum of what each power rail can deliver. All these rails cannot achieve their peak output wattage concurrently and will add up to the Total Continuous Power.

Moreover, efficiency is more important than you think! If your PSU is 80% efficient (80 PLUS) and uses 500W at any given moment, then 625W will be drawn from the wall due to efficiency losses. At 94% efficiency (80 PLUS Platinum at 50% load), this would reduce to 532W.

These values are measured from 20% load to 100% load. Your efficiency could drop if your system uses <20% of the total PSU’s capacity. In any case, 50% load seems to be the sweet spot for efficiency. In a theoretical system that has a 2000W PSU and the total load is at 50% (1000W), here’s the difference you’d see between an 80 PLUS PSU and an 80 PLUS TITANIUM PSU:

• 80 PLUS: 1250W From the Wall
• 80 PLUS TITANIUM: 1063W From the Wall

That’s a near 200W difference. If the system is run 24/7 for 30 days, then you’d see a 144 unit (kWh) energy consumption difference between the two. Electricity rates in California are around 19.90 cents per kWh, so you’re looking at $30 savings per month.

READ MORE: The Difference: Gold vs Bronze Rated Power Supplies ➜

Conclusion

Long story short, if you want to know what PSU your system uses, just remove the side panel and look at the PSU sticker. If there is no sticker present, however, you could search online for your OEM system (OptiPlex, ThinkCentre, etc.) and try to match the exact model.

There are many reasons why you’d want to know your PSU’s details. If you’re looking to get a new GPU, many old supplies simply lack a 1×8 pin or a 1×6+2 pin connector. You do want to look out for motherboards in OEM builds that lack a 24-pin connector. In that case, if you wish to replace the PSU, you might have to swap the motherboard as well.

The post How to Know What Power Supply You Have? [4 Easy Ways] appeared first on Appuals.

How Does GPU Scheduling Work?

Traditionally, the CPU is responsible for managing the GPU’s memory and its task schedule. If you’re playing a game, the application sends a lot of resource-intensive rendering textures and whatnot to the GPU. The CPU manages the order in which these tasks are handled through the Windows Display Driver Model or WDDM.

WDDM, at its core, always required a high-priority thread (Logical Core) on the CPU that handled this scheduling. You can see the obvious drawback here. For every new task, the CPU has to communicate with the GPU, introducing latency. Moreover, this scheduling puts extra strain on your CPU and it may be unable to keep up with the GPU’s demand.

Another flaw of CPU scheduling is that the CPU always schedules tasks in advance for the GPU, this is called buffering. If the GPU is rendering frame N on your screen and you move your mouse, this action will first be processed by the CPU in frame N+1 and then displayed.

It is also important to mention that CPU scheduling tries to achieve a balance between input lag and CPU load. If fewer but larger chunks of tasks are sent, this can reduce the burden on the CPU but create latency. If frequent but smaller batches of tasks are sent, it can help alleviate latency issues but increase complexity and necessitate higher CPU clock speeds.

Meet HAGS

With the Windows 10 May 2020 (2004) update, Microsoft introduced a new GPU scheduler to counteract these shortcomings. We’ve discussed most of what it does in the above section, however, HAGS sets the foundation for many new technologies to come. For example, NVIDIA’s Frame Generation technology requires HAGS to function.

Hardware-accelerated GPU Scheduling offloads most of the GPU’s tasks and memory management to a dedicated processor on the GPU. This eliminates the intermediary (CPU) and mitigates most of the input latency issues introduced by traditional methods.

All said and done, does HAGS actually increase performance? Theoretically and technically, it should. Microsoft claims that HAGS will not cause performance regressions, whereas NVIDIA and AMD both claim that this feature could improve performance and latency.

We’ve seen and will cover many instances where HAGS can lead to a significant performance boost, free of cost. However, in some other cases, HAGS can produce instability and crashes. We’ll discuss them in a later section.

READ MORE: Should you Enable Hardware-Accelerated GPU Scheduling?

How to Turn On Hardware Accelerated GPU Scheduling

First things first, does your GPU support HAGS? Let’s see the supported GPUs and architectures from all 3 major GPU manufacturers.

• NVIDIA: GTX 10 or Higher with the GeForce 450 Driver
• AMD: RX 7700 and Above (On Windows 11 Only)
• Intel: Not Supported Yet

Here’s how you can turn on Hardware Accelerated GPU Scheduling if your system and driver support it:

1. Press the shortcut Win + I on your keyboard as shown in the image.
   
   
   
2. Once the Settings tab opens, in the Search Bar type “Graphics” and select the option that says “Graphics settings.
   
   
   
3. Once the Graphics page opens, click on the highlighted option saying “Change default graphics settings“.
   
   
   
4. Turn on the “Hardware-accelerated GPU scheduling” option as shown.
   
   
   
5. It is recommended that you restart your PC to ensure everything works properly.

READ MORE: Is your Windows Continuously Restarting? Try these Fixes ➜

Should You Turn HAGS On?

While only NVIDIA realistically supports (and AMD to some extent) HAGS, let’s discuss whether you should use this feature. We’ll go across various benchmarks, synthetic and gaming to see if HAGS makes a difference.

Generally, a small performance loss/gain should be negligible and will be in the margin of error. What we want to look for is outliers and check if the performance tanks in specific scenarios.

Lucky for us, Puget Systems conducted a large number of synthetic tests a while back. We’ll be using their numbers as a reference to see if HAGS is really worth all the hype.

1. Synthetic Testing

Again, the credit goes to Puget Systems for spending valuable time conducting these tests. From the results, we find that HAGS has very little impact on synthetic benchmarks. So if you’re looking to impress your friends with a higher score then HAGS won’t do the trick.

Starting with Photoshop, the largest difference was with the AMD Threadripper PRO 5995WX and the RTX 4080 system where a configuration without HAGS leads to 8% better performance.

In After Effects, there is a consistent lead when HAGS is turned on, with the largest performance gap at 10%. Moving over to Unreal Engine 5.2, most results are within the margin of error, so no conclusive decision can be made in this case.

Blender in CPU mode sees much of the same fate with little to no contribution in performance after toggling HAGS on. Moving over to Blender with Optix, here HAGS once again shows an almost invariable lead extending up to 7% with systems having extra GPU headroom.

HAGS has both upsides and downsides, at least in synthetic where at one extreme we gain 10% extra performance but lose 5% at the other. Let’s move over to gaming next, where one would expect some actual differences.

2. Gaming

Let’s rip off the band-aid, HAGS is a mixed bag and we’ve seen cases where different architectures caused HAGS to result in a +15% and a -15% performance delta in the same game. It is that much variable. While most games won’t show a massive uplift in the average FPS, we want to keep an eye out for the 0.1% and 1% lows as those numbers determine how stuttery or smooth your gaming experience will be.

NVIDIA

The first set of benchmarks features NVIDIA’s RTX 4090 paired with a Ryzen 7 5800X (Credit:
DannyzReviews). Users are free to go over all the benchmarks, but we found most to be within the margin of error, however, the ones shown in the images below showcase a substantial improvement in the experience and fluidity of the game, with HAGS turned on.

The RTX 4090 at stock in Far Cry 6 dipped as low as 62 FPS, almost dabbling into the “unplayable” territory. On turning HAGS on, the 1% lows improved to 82 FPS. In Gears 5, the average FPS improved from 107 FPS -> 118 FPS and the 1% lows also jumped from 62 FPS to 90 FPS. Mixed with ReBar, HAGS offers an almost free-of-cost improvement in your performance.

READ MORE: How to Fix Low FPS and Performance Issues in Dead Space Remake? ➜

AMD

On the AMD side of things, Ancient Gameplays conducted various benchmarks a few months ago with the RX 7700 XT + Ryzen 5 7600X and the RX 7900 XTX + Ryzen 7 7700X. To our surprise, there is an endless tug of war between HAGS on and HAGS off. This can be attributed to the hardware differences between RDNA3 and Ada Lovelace. Anyhow, let’s go over the final results.

The slower Ryzen 5 7600X + RX 7700 XT setup managed to deliver worse performance with HAGS on. At 1080p and 4K, not only was the average FPS slightly lower, but the 1% lows didn’t see any increase as well. Would you consider a 1-2% decrement within the margin of error? The difference isn’t much, but the headline is that this setup didn’t see any notable improvements.

Moving over to the Ryzen 7 7700X + RX 7900 XTX, the opposite is seen here as this configuration delivers better 1% lows at 4K and 1440p, whereas 1080p is a marginal regression.

Edge Case Testing

Interestingly, in CPU-bound scenarios, HAGS almost becomes a necessity. YouTuber 5700X BAE often conducts tests in CS:GO 2 and Valorant using different new technologies. With the June 2024 patch in CS:GO the RTX 3060 12GB and Ryzen 7 5700X deliver consistently better averages and lows with HAGS on. Additionally, HAGS also flattens out the frametime graph as shown in the video.

Valorant has more of the same impact as HAGS, wherein the 1% lows improve by almost 100 FPS. Likewise, the framerate also jumps from 500 FPS -> 600 FPS in some scenarios. So yes, in some edge-case scenarios, turning HAGS on is a no-brainer. It is best to try your games with and without this setting, do a bit of testing and see if you find any noticeable differences.

READ MORE: How To Convert CSGO Sens to Valorant Sensitivity? [2024]➜

Conclusion

From what we’ve seen thus far, turning HAGS on does you more good than harm. Sure, you may lose 1-2% performance, but that’s within margin of error. In the best-case scenario, your game will run much smoother and the worst that could happen is that it may crash, especially if it is an older title.

HAGS lays down the foundation for future technologies to come, like DLSS Frame Generation and whatnot. It does not guarantee a free FPS increase but there’s really no harm in turning it on. If you find that your game is stuttering for no reason, maybe HAGS could be the fix you need. If your game is crashing without any reason, try turning off HAGS.

It is also a well-known fact that HAGS in Windows 11 performs much better than in Windows 10. It is also believed that the architecture of your GPU plays a slight role in how HAGS performs. Ampere (RTX 30) has an inferior implementation of hardware scheduling than Ada Lovelace (RTX 40) as per some.

Just like how you need to try on a new shirt to see if it fits your size, it’s best if you try HAGS yourself to see if it suits your needs.

The post Keep Hardware Accelerated GPU Scheduling On or Off? [2024] appeared first on Appuals.

While slowly being replaced by its successor, PCIe 4.0 slots are found in almost every motherboard built in the last few years. As the demand for high-speed computing increases, we need faster, more reliable, and scalable data bus connections. So let’s discuss more about the PCIe standard itself;

The PCIe Standard

PCIe adopts serial full-duplex communication, wherein data can be sent and received simultaneously between the sender and receiver. On the software side, PCIe is backward compatible with the old PCI standard, even if support is not available. Likewise, PCIe is backward compatible with itself, that is, you can use a PCIe Gen 4.0 SSD in a PCIe 3.0 slot.

Between any two devices, PCIe supports links between 1 – 16 lanes. An x1 slot transfers data at the rate of 1 bit per second, an x4 slot transfers data at 4 bits per second, and so on.

During the initialization phase, the number of lanes used can be reduced to the maximum amount supported by both devices. It is possible to place an x1 PCIe device in an x16 slot, but the bandwidth will be limited. Similarly, using an x16 PCIe card in an x8 slot is also possible. Generally, links having the following widths have been specified;

• PCIe x1
• PCIe x4
• PCIe x8
• PCIe x16

This allows not only high-bandwidth devices (GPUs) but also lightweight networking devices such as Gigabit Ethernet to be supported by the standard. Within your motherboard, the vertical bars that you often see are PCIe slots. Any device placed atop these slots is connected with the CPU directly or is routed via the PCH to the CPU.

READ MORE: NVMe PCIe M.2 Vs. SATA – Which Should You Buy and Why? ➜

Advantages of PCIe

Being the official standard in every PC, PCIe has a lot of tricks up its sleeve. It is highly scalable, fast, hot plug capable, backward compatible, and future–proof. Let’s discuss these advantages one by one;

1) High Bandwidth

PCIe provides significantly higher speeds as compared to older standards. This is accomplished through its multi-lane system to increase data transfer rates. Moreover, each iteration of PCIe doubles the speed of the last generation. PCIe 4.0 can push 16 GT/s (Giga Transfers) per lane, or almost 32 GB/s across an x16 link.

A table from Wikipedia shows the bandwidth, data transfer rates, and technology behind all PCIe versions;

READ MORE: Resizable PCIe BAR and AMD Smart Access Memory Explained ➜

2) Scalability

Motherboard vendors can configure PCIe slots in almost any slot size, provided it conforms to the standard. GPUs are typically slotted in the 1×16 slot, whereas NVMe SSDs have designated x4 slots for them.

The PCH on your motherboard often uses an x4/x8 link to communicate with the CPU. This link allows various devices such as ethernet controllers, WiFi cards, and additional NVMe SSDs to communicate on a single x4/x8 slot. We’ll discuss more about CPU and PCH lanes in a later section.

3) Future Proofing

PCIe has various future revisions planned out, including PCIe 6.0 and PCIe 7.0. The latest edition is PCIe 5.0, which packs 32 GT/s per lane or nearly 64 GB/s across 16 lanes. Intel’s 12th Generation (Alder Lake) CPUs were the first x86 CPUs to incorporate PCIe 5.0 support.

AMD’s Zen4 followed with upwards of 24 PCIe 5.0 lanes. In the GPU market, NVIDIA’s current GH100 GPU provides support for PCIe 5.0. The Chinese GPU, Moore Thread’s MTT S80, is technically the first consumer GPU with PCIe 5.0 support, however, support and availability are extremely limited.

PCIe 6.0 and 7.0 plan to increase bandwidth to 64 GT/s and 128 GT/s respectively. In a 16-lane layout, this yields 128 GB/s and 242 GB/s of bandwidth respectively. Currently, the NVIDIA Blackwell-based GB100 is the world’s first PCIe 6.0 GPU.

READ MORE: How to Find Out How Old Is Your Computer – Windows & Mac ➜

CPU vs PCH PCIe Lanes

What if we tell you that not all PCIe lanes are the same? A typical Z790 has 16 PCIe 5.0 and 4 PCIe 4.0 lanes, directly linked with the CPU. Let’s establish a few basics first. Data flows from your GPU/SSD/Networking devices to the CPU, this is accomplished through the PCIe standard.

The Distinction

Staying on topic, alongside the direct lanes, there exist other lanes for low-bandwidth devices, such as WiFi, networking, and onboard sound. To accommodate for these devices, the chipset or PCH on your motherboard has additional downstream lanes. So data flows from your ethernet to the chipset (PCH), which sends this data to the CPU.

In the diagram above, the chipset has 20 PCIe 4.0 lanes and 8 PCIe 3.0 lanes (left side) which seem like a lot but they are connected using a narrow x8 DMI 4.0 (16 GB/s) link to the CPU. Any sort of data that flows through these lanes faces latency and can easily saturate the rather narrow link.

You may also hear of the term “HSIO lanes“, which are High-Speed Input-Output lanes used to connect all the PCIe lanes on your system. They are of not much concern to the average consumer. For context, the Z790 chipset offers 38 high-speed I/O lanes, divided into 20 PCIe 4.0 and 8 PCIe 3.0 lanes and others reserved for connectivity.

Real World Impact

On the same Z790 motherboard, you can use the top slot (x16 PCIe 5.0) for the GPU, and the bottom slot (x4 PCIe 4.0) for a fast NVMe drive (Up to 8GB/s). Any other NVMe SSD will be routed from the PCH, or through the x8 DMI 4.0 (equivalent to x8 PCIe 4.0). If you connect several SSDs and other storage media, you can easily exceed the limits of the DMI link (16 GB/s).

Moreover, on the mid-ranged B660, the link is constricted to just x4 DMI 4.0 (8 GB/s). In the case of AMD’s X670E, the CPU natively features 24 PCIe 5.0 lanes and 4 General Purpose PCIe 4.0 lanes. The chipset offers 12 extra PCIe 4.0 and 8 PCIe 3.0 lanes. However, again, the PCH and CPU are connected with a lacking x4 PCIe 4.0 (8 GB/s) link.

If you’re likely to use more than 2 NVMe SSDs, try considering a HEDT / Workstation platform. AMD’s Threadripper 7000 PRO features 128 PCIe Gen 5.0 lanes directly connected to the CPU.

READ MORE: The 5 Best PCIe Gen 4 SSDs – Best Performing M.2 Options ➜

What is PCIe 4.0?

In late 2011, PCI-SIG introduced initial specifications for the PCIe 4.0 standard, said to offer 16 GT/s or 32 GB/s in a 16-lane setup. The official launch took almost 6 years and in June 2017, PCI-SIG formally detailed the final specifications of PCIe 4.0.

AMD was the first consumer chip maker to launch CPUs with support for PCIe 4.0, starting with Zen2 and the X570E flagship chipset in 2019. Intel was a bit late to the party and PCIe 4.0 came in the blue flavor with Tiger Lake the next year.

PCIe 4.0 adopts a 128b/130b encoding technique to transform 128-bit data into 130-bits. This translates to almost 98.46% efficiency, which is much more efficient than previous iterations.

Impact on SSDs and GPUs

In terms of real-world performance, a 4 lane PCIe 4.0 link for SSDs maxes out at roughly 8 GB/s. This is in line with what most consumer high-end PCIe 4.0 SSDs provide, such as the Samsung 990 PRO and WD Black SN850X.

Most GPUs feature an x8 or x16 bus interface, which is ample even for older PCIe versions. However, an outlier is the Radeon RX 6500 XT, featuring a limited x4 interface. If your PC uses PCIe 3.0 for the first x16 slot, your bandwidth will be limited to just 4 GB/s with the RX 6500 XT. This results in a performance delta of almost 70% in certain titles between PCIe 4.0 and PCIe 3.0.

Apart from that, you could miss out on a few frames with an x8/x16 card. Unless you built your PC a while back, you are most likely to have PCIe 4.0 as it was introduced with Rocket Lake-S (11th Gen) for Intel and Zen2 (Ryzen 3000) for AMD, though you’ll need a B550 or X570 at minimum.

READ MORE: RTX 3070 vs RX 6700 XT: Which GPU Should You Buy in 2024? ➜

Fear, Uncertainty and Doubt

It only took a few years for the market to see a sudden shift from PCIe 4.0 to PCIe 5.0 equipped systems. CPU manufacturers are slowly introducing more PCIe 5.0 slots with newer chipsets. Moreover, SSDs faster than 8 GB/s are technologically limited by the PCIe 4.0 standard. So, is it time to upgrade?

Generally speaking, all modern GPUs support no higher than PCIe Gen 4.0. You’d think that PCIe 4.0 and PCIe 3.0 would have a huge performance gap, but that’s not the case.

Gamer’s Nexus conducted some testing and despite the 2x bandwidth difference, the FPS marginally improved by only 2-3% between Gen 3 and Gen 4. It goes without saying that PCIe Gen 5.0 will be an even smaller improvement.

Likewise, in the SSD department, the first argument is that PCIe 5.0 supported SSDs are costly. At equivalent capacities, Gen 5 SSDs are almost 2x more expensive than Gen 4 SSDs. Secondly, the speed improvement is marginal, as PCIe 5.0 technology hasn’t reached its true potential, yet. You’d be paying 2x more for 1.5-1.6x more speeds (Upwards of 12000 MB/s).

Lastly, PCIe 5.0 SSDs run extremely hot. You almost always require a heatsink or even active cooling at times for sustained peak performance. Unless your workload can actually utilize this level of bandwidth, it is not worth the investment.

Potential Benefit of Upgrading

However, a strong point in favor of PCIe 5.0 is that a few of Intel’s upcoming Z890 boards are rumored to feature an x8 PCIe 5.0 slot (equal to x16 PCIe 4.0 for 32 GB/s) for the GPU. This leaves behind 3 x4 PCIe 5.0 slots for SSDs, directly to the CPU along with another x4 PCIe 4.0 slot. So, you get the best of both worlds while supplying more than enough bandwidth to the GPU.

Do note that this is just a rumor and not all of the high-end Z890 motherboards will support this configuration.

READ MORE: Advanced SSD Buying Guide – NAND types, DRAM Cache, HMB Explained ➜

Conclusion

The takeaway is that any modern system should be equipped with at least one x16 PCIe 4.0 slot, with the additional x4 based on either PCIe 4.0 or PCIe 3.0, depending on your board model. In light of these facts, it can be easily said that you must upgrade your system based on the CPU, GPU, and other components, not the PCIe generation.

Older GPUs on PCIe 3.0 PCs may not see a huge bump in performance even if upgraded to PCIe 4.0. The same can also be said for GPUs nowadays, though funnily enough, no GPU supports PCIe 5.0 yet. If you’re on a budget, then PCIe 4.0/3.0 will do you just fine.

However, if you want a high-end system, upcoming chipsets can quite effectively give you many storage options (3 x4 PCIe 5.0 + 1 x4 PCIe 4.0), with ample bandwidth for the GPU, though you’ll need a PCIe 5.0 (x8) GPU, which as of now, do not exist. This is because the RTX 4090 will run at PCIe 4.0 x8 (16 GB/s, equal to PCIe 3.0 x16) speeds since it only supports PCIe 4.0.

The post What is PCIe 4.0 & Should You Upgrade Your System in 2024? appeared first on Appuals.

Mapping out the best possible and most efficient airflow direction and fan placement can be hectic. Especially since the complex jargon thrown here and there by enthusiasts can easily confuse new PC builders. So, what is your PC’s best possible fan configuration to achieve optimum airflow and cooling? Follow this guide for more details.

Basics of PC Fans

PC cooling works based on a very simple rule, cold air in, hot air out. If any one of these two checks is not satisfied, you will not achieve the desired temperatures. Staying on topic, PC fans mostly come pre-installed in cases nowadays. The quality and quantity as well vary a lot, though you can always go for aftermarket options.

1) Fan Size

If you’re out shopping for PC fans, you must’ve come to know that PC fans, like clothes come in different shapes and sizes. Larger fans at around 200mm can push through more air, however, most PC cases top out at say 120–140mm.

READ MORE: Case Fan Bearing Types – Differences And Comparison ➜

2) CFM (Cubic Feet per Minute)

CFM stands for Cubic Feet per Minute and is used to measure the volume of air that a fan can push through within 1 minute. A higher number means more volume filled, with most decent fans offering upwards of 50 CFM for 120mm.

3) RPM (Revolutions Per Minute)

RPM determines the number of times your fan spins in 1 minute. More RPM is normally better, though it can cause extra noise which is measured in Decibels (dB). RPM doesn’t really matter since CFM is a better measure of the fan’s performance. It is best to balance sound (dB) and CFM.

4) Difference Between Static and Airflow Fans

There are two types of fans based on how they circulate air. Static fans are commonly used when there are a lot of obstacles that may hinder airflow, say a radiator or a bulky CPU cooler. Aim for high mm-H2O values if you’re out to purchase a static fan.

If you want to save the extra cash, airflow fans are all about the air volume pushed. If your PC has a lot of free volume and air can pass through unrestricted, airflow fans may be just what you need. It is important to watch some reviews about the particular fan you’re purchasing to see if the claims are borne out by real-world performance.

READ MORE: 5 Best High CFM Case Fans For Efficient Cooling ➜

The Two Airflow Paths

What system parts do you need to cool? Generally, your priority should be to pass as much cool air as possible through your CPU and GPU since they tend to consume the most power. In this regard, we have two types of airflow directions;

1) Intake Fans

As the name suggests, intake fans supply cold air into your PC and dispel the hot air upwards. They provide a cooling effect that lowers the temperatures of your PC components.

2) Exhaust Fans

Hot air rises. The air around your GPU and CPU is heated and rises in your PC. Therefore, people generally install a fan at the rear end of their PC to drive off the unwanted heat.

To determine in which way your fan throws air, look for markings on the fan itself. A small arrow should indicate the direction in which the fan blows air. Likewise, if no such indications exist, inspect the curves of the blades. If the fan curves towards you, that’s the exhaust side.

READ MORE: How to Optimize and Maintain Positive Airflow in Your Gaming PC ➜

Types of Air Pressure

Typically, there are 3 kinds of air pressure, each having its own flaws and benefits. Ideally, there should be a minimal difference between these types of air pressure at any given time. However, we must go over them to get an idea of what a balanced configuration looks like.

1) Positive Air Pressure

To achieve positive air pressure inside your PC’s case, there should exist more intake fans than exhaust fans. This leads to the air pressure in your case being higher than the surroundings.

• Less Dust.
• Steady/Larger flow of cool air over components.
• Inadequate exhaust airflow.

2) Negative Air Pressure

Negative air pressure effectively means more exhaust fans than intake fans. This creates a net negative air pressure in your case, which does attract more dust since air flows from high -> low air pressure. However, it has the added benefit of removing excess hot air.

• Efficient removal of exhaust.
• Increased dust accumulation.
• Potential cooling imbalance if not configured properly.

3) Neutral Air Pressure

The ideal configuration should be neutral, wherein the number of intake fans is equal to the number of exhaust fans. The only caveat in this scenario would be the placement of these fans which we shall touch on in the next section.

• A balance between positive and negative air pressure.
• Theoretically, the amount of air taken in will be equal to the amount of air pushed out.
• Is slightly harder to achieve.

READ MORE: Effective way to improve Fan Curve of Over-Heating GPU [Guide] ➜

Different Types of Fan Configurations

Achieving the lowest temperatures for your PC is a game of min-maxing. There is no mathematical formula or one-size-fits-all solution in this case. You can, however, be within the margin of error of the best cooling possible should you attain a balanced configuration. What exactly does a balanced configuration mean then?

1) Single Fan Configurations

Most commonly found in OEM solutions, a single fan exhaust solution can only cool low-end desktops. If you use an old system or components that use less wattage, you can make do with this setup though it would be preferable to have at least one intake fan as well.

On the flip side, a single intake fan could be a disaster for your PC. Unless you use very low-power components, the hot air will just accumulate inside, basking every other component in its heat.

When to Use This Config?

If you have a low-power CPU and GPU, this could be a decent configuration for your PC. Provided your case has the option, we strongly recommend getting 1 intake and 1 exhaust fan to get the best of both worlds.

2) Dual/Triple Fan Configurations

A dual fan configuration with a rear and a front fan is a perfect example of neutral air pressure. The air moves from the front to the back, straightforwardly flowing over the main components. If you prefer, you may install another intake fan at the front for enhanced airflow.

Most pre-built gaming PCs arrive in a triple fan setup with 2 intakes and 1 exhaust fan. If you run a mid-ranged setup, this should be perfect for your needs. The second fan at the front will provide ample cooling to the GPU within say 150W.

However, make sure that the airflow is not obstructed by meshes and poor design choices, which most budget PC cases are victims of.

When to Use this Config?

This setup aims towards neutral to positive air pressure and is suitable for budget/mid-ranged setups. Do note that you should keep the size and wattage of your components in check. If your CPU cooler is very large, airflow might be obstructed and the same goes for the GPU.

READ MORE: 7 Best Coolers For Intel Core i9-14900K in 2024 ➜

3) Multi-Fan Configurations

A setup with 2 front intakes, and 1 top and 1 rear exhaust could be a worthy upgrade over the triple fan configuration we discussed above. The air pressure is neutral in this scenario, however, your mileage may vary since the air from the lower intake fan at the front still needs some push to move up towards the exhaust.

Alternatively, you could opt for a bottom intake fan. This will create significantly positive air pressure, however, if your case design allows for unobstructed airflow thanks to the absence of a bottom-mounted PSU, this setup efficiently circulates air around your GPU.

If you have the budget and the appropriate case, a front, rear, bottom, and top setup could do you and your GPU and CPU wonders. While the aim for neutrality continues, it is hard to find flaws within this setup.

When to Use this Config?

If you have a decent rig and don’t want to dabble into AIO territory, these multi-fan configurations will do just fine. However, if you run unlocked 250W+ CPUs, you will need very strong air cooling or preferably a good AIO unit which we’ll discuss below.

4) All-in-Ones (AIOs)

AIOs are most often placed at the top of your PC, rather than the front. The fans can be set into push or pull mode, with the former pushing out heat, from the radiator, and simultaneously, from the PC. Similarly, the pull configuration, although rare, pulls in air which of course heats up since it passes through the already-hot radiator.

The most common AIO configuration is a top-mounted push layout. The CPU generates heat, this heat travels in the form of a liquid to the radiator (in red). The fans (in green) push out the heat from the radiators and create an exhaust at the same time.

A top-mounted pull design can lead to even lower CPU temperatures, however, it may increase the overall case temperature. Likewise, this decision will require some changes to your fan setup to achieve a balance between intake and exhaust fans.

When to Use AIOs?

AIOs are more aesthetically pleasing than a normal air cooler. They can be costly and if are satisfied with your current cooler’s performance you should not burn money on an expensive AIO, unless you’re really compelled by the looks.

READ MORE: Best AiO Coolers – 120, 240 and 360mm ➜

Which Fan Setup Suits You the Most?

Depending on your PC’s specifications and power consumption, you first want to make sure whether you want to use a normal air cooler or an AIO. Afterward, based on your PC’s case and budget, decide on the number of PC fans you can purchase.

You must choose your GPU accordingly. In a particular case, Linus found that his RTX 3090 ran at higher temperatures with two intake fans and one exhaust fan compared to having just one exhaust fan.

That video was debunked and the conclusion came out to be that the GPU was benefitting more from a negative air pressure. While installing two intake fans at the front would seem beneficial to anyone, even according to us, that specific build required a bottom intake fan as well to push the GPU’s hot air upwards.

Long story short, the GPU was too large, the case was too small and there should’ve been a bottom intake fan for the GPU. Select a case that allows you to install a fan at the bottom and make sure it’s not on a carpeted surface if you do so.

Budget cases cover the front intake fans with unnecessary plastic, hindering the airflow significantly. Whatever you do, avoid PCs with a solid front panel like the plague. It is also necessary to make sure your CPU cooler is appropriate for your processor; you wouldn’t want to pair an i9-14900KS with the stock Intel cooler.

READ MORE: How To Control The Fan Speeds Of Your Newly Built Gaming PC ➜

Conclusion

To achieve the perfect airflow, determine and re-evaluate your requirements. You may need to upgrade your casing or fan set if your components are power-hungry. Avoid dust build-up and perform routine maintenance on your system.

Fan orientation and pressure types don’t really matter as long as you maintain a balanced setup. Likewise, if you think you have the best possible orientation, try upgrading your fans based on the CFM / mm-H2O values.

The ambient temperature can also affect your PC’s performance a lot. Since this factor is not under your control, try undervolting your GPU and CPU, which can sometimes give better performance and even prolong your GPU’s lifespan.

The post How to Choose the Best PC Fan Direction for Optimal Cooling appeared first on Appuals.

Both Lenovo and HP have a strong foothold in the laptop market. While there are other options like Dell, MSI, ASUS, and whatnot but since you’ve clicked on this article, we’ll assume only these two have caught your fancy. So let’s start with a bit of history.

A Brief Overview

Both laptop manufacturers have been a part of the game since before the 2000s. To the average consumer these companies simply manufacture laptops, however, they serve the market in a much broader sense. Did you know that Lenovo once sold its own mobile phones?

HP

HP stands for Hewlett–Packard and it is a multinational technology company situated in the USA. It was founded in 1939 and has catered to almost every market in the IT industry; PCs, Printers, Software, Support, 3D Printing, and Laptops.

Lenovo

Lenovo is another multinational technology company centered in China, with headquarters in the USA. Despite being founded in 1984, the name “Lenovo” came into being in 2004. Just a year later, Lenovo purchased IBM’s personal computer, which included the iconic “ThinkPad” lineup. So now you know that Lenovo’s ThinkPad series carries some serious weight behind its name.

READ MORE: How to Fix Black Line on Lenovo Laptop Screen in 2024 ➜

Different Laptop Offerings

Lenovo and HP have a large number of choices when it comes to laptops, for every segment of the market. Across both brands, you will find perfect entry-level options, mid-range offerings, MacBook competitors, and gaming-centric laptops.

As you move across the spectrum, all brands tend to pack extra features. Buying a laptop is not like buying a PC, where you simply see the specifications and click on “Purchase“. Extra features, such as the ones mentioned below can significantly overhaul your experience;

• 2-in-1 Laptops
• 360° Rotatable Laptops
• Screen Refresh Rate (Typically >60Hz)
• Fingerprint Sensor
• Larger Battery (Typically >50Wh)
• Higher TDP/TGP GPUs (Typically >100W)
• Touchscreen Display
• High Resolution Display (Typically >1080p)
• OLED/Mini-LED Displays
• MUX Switch
• USB/Thunderbolt/HDMI Ports and Card Readers

Now it is important to note that there is no “standard” segment division across both brands. Moreover, since both produce so many laptops, the question of “Which brand is better?” ultimately depends on the model you purchase. However, let’s delve into this topic case by case;

HP

Starting with HP, we find many choices for every price segment. Entry-level or budget offerings include the HP Essential and the HP Pavillion series. These fall under mainstream budget laptops and offer great value for money.

Next up in the mid-range segment, exists the HP Envy. With a few more added quirks such as a fingerprint sensor, better display, touchscreen, larger battery etcetera the high-end spectrum is treated with the HP Spectre series.

• Entry–Level: HP Pavillion/Essential
• Mid–Range: HP ENVY
• High–End: HP Spectre
• Business–Oriented: HP ProBook/EliteBook
• Gaming: HP Omen

On the more business side of things, HP has its ProBook and EliteBook lineups for customers. Notably, ProBook is slightly inferior to EliteBook as suggested by the naming. Lastly, gaming enthusiasts and HP fans always prefer the Omen series, though upgradability may vary from model to model.

Lenovo

As is the case with HP, Lenovo is no slouch when it comes to offering the best bang for buck laptops. Lenovo particularly excels in the budget and mid-range segment with its esteemed ThinkPad lineup.

If you want the simple tl;dr, the IdeaPad is designated for the entry–level segment, ThinkPad for the business, and Legion for the high-end market. However, Lenovo has its own slightly confusing way of compartmentalizing its laptops.

• Entry–Level: Lenovo IdeaPad (1,3,5), Yoga (6)
• Mid–Range: Lenovo IdeaPad (7)
• High–End: Lenovo IdeaPad (9), Yoga (7,9)
• Business–Oriented: Lenovo ThinkPad/ThinkBook
• Gaming: Lenovo Legion

Yoga is synonymous with 360° and sometimes even 2-in-1 laptops in the Lenovo world. IdeaPad extends from the low-end to high-end markets. ThinkPads are superior to ThinkBooks in various ways, but both are not limited to businesses. Like HP’s EliteBooks, some users prefer ThinkPads in the mid-ranged/high-end range.

READ MORE: How to Fix HP Laptop That Won’t Charge Anymore? ➜

Which Laptop Should You Purchase?

Now that we’ve detailed the various laptop offerings from both brands, which laptop should you buy? There are many factors, but generally, you don’t compare brands, you compare models. Likewise, it depends if you’re buying used or brand new.

1) Quirks About Lenovo and HP

Laptops from both parties have a few things you should look out for; good and bad.

HP

A very common issue seen with HP laptops is a loose hinge. Some symptoms include a stiff or even a loose hinge that may break over time. Moreover, HP’s laptops come installed with bloatware which you can remove but is a hassle.

HP’s design is mostly sleek and very aesthetically pleasing. HP Spectre and higher-end ENVY/Pavillion models “generally” feature an Aluminium body and thus are more durable and better at conducting heat.

Lenovo

Users have reported issues of “Screen Flickering” and keyboard problems with Lenovo laptops. On a similar note, Lenovo’s Vantage software is notorious for bugs and glitches.

ThinkPads, despite their lackluster appearance, have become a fan favorite amongst many. They are the go-to MacBook competitor choice for users. Fun fact, ThinkPads are so popular, that they have their own dedicated Subreddit.

2) “The More You Spend, The More You Save”

An altered version of Jensen’s famous quote, “The more you buy, the more you save“. In this context, the key takeaway is that budget laptops will tend to cheap out on components, whether you go for HP or Lenovo.

If you spend $500 on either brand, you may not notice a huge difference in the experience offered. You won’t generally see cheap Pavillions/IdeaPads with Aluminium bodies, so you should keep your expectations in check. If you don’t want to spend a fortune, ThinkPads and EliteBooks may just be what you’re looking for.

3) Model Over Brand Name

As we’re dealing with two very reputable brands, you should always compare the specifications of their models rather than the brands themselves. The first key step is to check the on-paper specifications; CPU, GPU, Memory, Storage, Display etcetera.

Afterward, verify the extra features, upgrade path, and thermal solution, and finally check at least 3-4 different reviews, on different platforms. Here are a few things you should look out for:

• Prefer a modern CPU such as AMD’s Zen4/Zen5 or Intel’s Meteor Lake/Lunar Lake. Note: Intel’s 12th, 13th, and 14th generations utilize the same underlying architecture. Meteor Lake, while a step in the positive direction, will be superseded by Lunar Lake-MX and Arrow Lake in the upcoming months.
• Prefer a high-wattage GPU, though make sure you’re not overpaying for 140W RTX 4050, 4060, and 4070 variants as they barely scale past 100W. (Image Credit: Jarrod’sTech)
  
• If you have 16GB or less memory, make sure it is upgradable and your laptop has a dual-slot configuration. LPDDR memory is soldered and not upgradeable.
• Always prefer an IPS panel over TN since the difference is quite perceivable. Likewise, stick with 1080p or higher.
• If you want on-the-go gaming, make sure your Legion/Omen laptop has a MUX switch.

READ MORE: How to Update BIOS on A HP Desktop/Laptop ➜

4) New vs. Used

A brand-new laptop comes with a fresh unboxing experience, a warranty, and the assurance that it has not been used beforehand. For this peace of mind, you may have to pay extra but for some, it is worth it. However, if you want to save some cash and go the used route, be ready to perform some stringent testing.

Here is how you should check your laptop if you’re going the second-hand route:

1. Check the body for any damages/scratches. Afterward, see if the screen is scratched or not.
2. Test the keyboard and trackpad thoroughly.
3. Test all the included I/O ports.
4. After you’ve physically inspected the laptop, take a USB flash drive with you containing software such as FurMark, CPU-Z, HWiNFO, and AIDA64.
5. Stress test the laptop to see if it thermal throttles. Temperatures within 90°C are acceptable but do check reviews to find the median range for your laptop.
6. Stress your GPU using FurMark and keep an eye out for crashes.
7. Some laptops have a battery health indicator in their BIOS such as Dell. However, you can use HWiNFO or Windows Battery Report to know your battery health.
8. Test the laptop for at least 1 hour to see how much battery you drain. Taking into account the excessive workload, you can get an estimated screen-on-time figure.
9. Get a minimum warranty of a couple of days for extra peace of mind.

5) Local Market Variance

The prices and availability of laptops depend significantly upon your region. Sometimes, manufacturers choose not to launch specific high-end models in certain countries. If you are keen on buying new, then visit your local retailer or browse their website to see whatever models are available.

After enough research, you should have a few models in mind. It is a good practice to take suggestions from your local community groups such as those on Facebook, Reddit, and whatnot. The next step is to watch reviews or one-on-one comparisons of said models and then purchase. Make sure to keep the aforementioned checks in mind.

6) Battery Life

If your primary concern is battery life, a popular suggestion will be to get an Apple silicon-based MacBook. If you cannot leave the Windows ecosystem, the recently launched Snapdragon X Elite processors are worth looking into, but the support is shabby, to say the least.

Battery life isn’t primarily decided by the manufacturer but by the CPU/SoC used in the laptop. Another option would be to wait for Strix Point / Granite Ridge or Lunar Lake if you don’t want to rely on x86 to ARM translation layers.

Another solution is to simply opt for a laptop with a large battery. It is recommended not to purchase a laptop with a battery lower than 50Wh, however, if your laptop features a low-power CPU with a “U” suffix, like the Ryzen 7 5800U/i5-1235U, >40Wh is the target. The higher, the better, but the more bulkier and heavier your laptop will be.

READ MORE: The 5 Best Laptops for Small Businesses in 2024 [All Budgets] ➜

Conclusion

As a general rule of thumb, whether it be HP, Lenovo, Dell, or whatever brand, a higher-end model will have better thermals, better specifications, and a better build quality than the rest. Ultimately, as we reiterate, compare the models, not the brands.

Furthermore, both manufacturers have various lineups for your use case. Students always prefer ThinkPads/EliteBooks over say a Legion or Omen gaming laptop. If you are a hardcore gamer, then that begs the question, “Why not build a gaming PC?”

You should also enquire about the local warranty support for both brands in your region. If you are going to pay a premium for a brand-new laptop, make sure your warranty will be entertained in case something goes wrong.

The post Lenovo vs HP: Which Laptop Should You Buy in 2024 & Why? appeared first on Appuals.

What are POST Codes?

We have a detailed guide regarding the actual process of POST, where we mention how to diagnose various beep codes. However, it is important to know that modern-day computers feature Q-LEDs or POST-LEDs. You may find LEDs that display numeric, alphanumeric codes or simply blink/remain static as an indicator.

When a PC undergoes POST, it is made to pass through a series of checks so that everything works as expected when the PC boots up. You wouldn’t want faulty RAM randomly disconnecting during an intense 1v5 in Siege, wouldn’t you? POST performs a series of checks on various hardware components including, but not limited to:

• CPU
• Memory/RAM
• Storage
• Basic Components like the DMA, timer, interrupt controller
• Keyboard
• Pointing Devices
• ROM BIOS

In case your PC fails to boot due to some problem, say at the Memory/RAM level, a DRAM LED on your motherboard lets you know there is some issue with your main memory. Sadly, there is no exact “standard” for these indications and different OEMs use different beep codes and POST codes.

Luckily for us, Q-LEDs are simpler to read since they only feature 4 possible culprits; CPU, DRAM, VGA or your boot drive. Now that we have understood the purpose of the DRAM light on your motherboard, let’s try to diagnose this issue.

READ MORE: What is Power-On Self-Test in Computers? POST Explained ➜

How to Fix DRAM Light on Motherboard?

If the DRAM light (Q-LED) on your motherboard remains lit or flashes, this indicates an issue with your RAM. There can be numerous causes for this error, such as poorly seated memory, incompatible memory modules, or even faulty RAM. Let’s go over these case by case:

1) Reseat Your Memory

If you’ve just built your PC, it can be possible that your RAM isn’t in proper contact with the motherboard. To fix this issue, we can attempt to reseat the RAM sticks, which simply means to insert and reinsert the memory properly.

1. Shut Down your PC and disconnect it from the wall.
2. Open your PC’s case and atop the motherboard, you should find your RAM modules, typically beside the CPU cooler. (Image Credit: G.Skill)
   
   
   
3. Disengage the memory retaining mechanism, generally in the form of small clips next to the RAM modules as shown.
   
   
   
4. Take the memory modules out and place them in the A2 and B2 slots for optimal results. Make sure you hear an audible click when you reinsert them.

2) Disable XMP

XMP enables memory to run at higher than JEDEC specifications, which is essentially a form of overclocking. This can introduce instability and disabling XMP can fix whatever memory issues you’re facing. The option is literally a few buttons away from you.

1. Shut Down your PC and open the BIOS by pressing the “Delete“, “F1“, “F2“, “F5” or “F10” keys. Consult your manufacturer’s guide for more details.
2. Since the BIOS/UEFI is different for every vendor, do a bit of research regarding your specific motherboard model and locate the “XMP Settings” which in our case was under the “Advanced” tab.
3. Set the “Memory profile” to “Disable“.
   
   
   
4. Another method is to reset your BIOS to factory settings but you may lose other preferences as well.

READ MORE: How to Resolve XMP Not Working Issue? ➜

3) AM5 Specific “Memory Training” POST Error

If you have a new AM5 build and you’re facing the same RAM issue, it may be that your memory is still in its “memory training” phase. As silly as it may sound, your system’s memory controller needs to learn the various parameters of the DDR5 kit used to ensure stable operation.

1. If you have multiple DIMMs, follow the steps in our reseating guide (Method 1) and place only 1 DIMM in either slot 2 or slot 4. (Image Credit: Crucial)
   
   
   
2. Boot your PC as you normally would and sit tight for 5-10 minutes while memory learning/training takes place. Afterward, the DRAM light should go out.
3. Repeat the same process with your second DIMM.
4. Your PC should boot normally.

4) Remove the CMOS Battery / Reset BIOS

Resetting the BIOS by taking out the CMOS battery can resolve DRAM issues. In order to reset your BIOS, follow these steps:

1. Turn off your PC, disconnect it from the wall, and take necessary ESD measures.
2. Open your PC’s case and locate the motherboard, on which you should find a CMOS battery beneath the GPU. If not there, then refer to your board manufacturer’s guide.
   
3. Using your fingers, gently pull the CMOS battery out. In some motherboards, you may find a clip mechanism that you have to pull up to remove the battery.
4. After 10-15 minutes, reinsert the CMOS battery and your BIOS should have been reset. Check to see if the error is still present.

READ MORE: What is a CMOS Battery? How It Works & How to Replace One ➜

5) Update Your BIOS

We’re gradually approaching the harder steps and one of them is to update your BIOS. Board manufactures often release newer BIOS revisions that improve RAM compatibility and stability. Updating your BIOS can be both easy and difficult, depending on how recent your motherboard is.

Modern motherboards have the option for BIOS flashback, which allows you to update your BIOS without entering the system. Get a working PC and download the required BIOS revision. After renaming the BIOS properly, store it inside a USB Flash Drive and enter the BIOS to, well, update your BIOS.

6) Faulty Memory

If none of the steps worked for you thus far, we’re entering into the realm of uncertainty — and possible hardware failure. Memory is quite resilient, however, being electronic, it too shall fail someday. A very easy way to verify if your memory is faulty or not is just to borrow a working memory kit from a friend or fellow.

You may also try individual DIMMs as explained in the reseating method above. If 1 DIMM works and the other doesn’t, you have a faulty memory kit. If both don’t work, the next step is to get access to a working kit.

Now try the working memory modules and check to see if the error persists. If for some reason, you still get the same issue, even with a working kit, there are 3 possible culprits then.

7) Dead CPU, PSU, or Motherboard

Assuming you’ve tried out a working memory kit with your PC and you still have to see that annoying DRAM light, then the issue might be with your other components. Let’s start with the easiest to replace, your PSU.

Power Supply Unit

It is very much possible that your PSU got damaged due to excessive voltage/current and is unable to supply ample power to the memory. Try another Power Supply or use your current supply in another PC.

CPU

Next up is the CPU. If you have any sort of avail to a processor supported by your motherboard/socket, check to see if the system boots with that CPU. The CPU features memory controllers which are responsible for communicating with the RAM. In rare cases, this section of your CPU could be damaged, rendering it useless.

Motherboard

The last resort is to swap all your components to a different motherboard. If your PC boots normally, you require a motherboard replacement. Again, as is the case with the PSU, random voltage/current spikes or even ESD can severely damage the motherboard.

READ MORE: How to Find Out How Old Is Your Computer – Windows & Mac ➜

A Word of Advice

POST errors relating to memory can be caused by a large number of components. As discussed above, you could be facing DRAM-issues with a bricked CPU. In less severe cases, maybe your memory is unstable after applying XMP.

It is important to verify each component individually and try to pinpoint the problem to the specific component causing the issue. You could go and purchase a brand new DDR5 kit, only to find that your Power Supply was damaged, not the memory.

READ MORE: How to Find Out What Motherboard You Have in 5 Steps ➜

Conclusion

The best way to resolve a static or blinking DRAM LED on your motherboard is by checking the functionality of each component. Try tinkering with settings at the software level, then move down to the physical components.

Modern-day Ryzen 7000 AM5 builds tend to face such issues. We’ve seen plenty cases of CPUs being bent and burnt, memory kits failing, motherboards dying, and whatnot. Resolving such issues can be frustrating, but consider reaching out to the vendor from whom you purchased your PC, for assistance.

More often than not, they have extra CPUs, memory modules, and other spare parts. Besides, if the after-sales service is good, you might get your PC diagnosed free of cost. Moreover, you also have the option of claiming the warranty on any broken/damaged component.

The post How to Fix ‘POST’ DRAM Light on Any Motherboard [2024] appeared first on Appuals.